Just back from an exploratory visit to Koln. City very battered by the War and dominated by the famous Cathedral, or Dom which largely survives - it is surrounded by incoherent public spaces bounded by modernist buildings. The Dom is almost barbaric, blackened, towering with an incoherent mess of gothic flying buttresses, towers, and pinacles. It is dedicated to St Ursula, daughter of unknown King of the Brits who with 11,000 (or maybe the legend misinterpreated roman numerals and should have reported 11) martyrs killled by Goths on way back from Rome. The Cathedral also got relics of the 3 Magi in the 12th Century from Milan - no idea how they got them but Fred Barbarossa was responsible on return from Crusades. In December, Koln is just steaming with shoppers and tourist visiting the famous Christmas Markets. These are found in various places and serve Gluwein, Bratwurst, all sorts of german food and various stalls selling all types of Christmas gift. The main shopping drag is full o...