Koln



Just back from an exploratory visit to Koln.

City very battered by the War and dominated by the famous Cathedral, or Dom which largely survives - it is surrounded by incoherent public spaces bounded by modernist buildings.

The Dom is almost barbaric, blackened, towering with an incoherent mess of gothic flying buttresses, towers, and pinacles.



It is dedicated to St Ursula, daughter of unknown King of the Brits who with 11,000 (or maybe the legend misinterpreated roman numerals and should have reported 11) martyrs killled by Goths on way back from Rome.

The Cathedral also got relics of the 3 Magi in the 12th Century from Milan - no idea how they got them but Fred Barbarossa was responsible on return from Crusades.

In December, Koln is just steaming with shoppers and tourist visiting the famous Christmas Markets. These are found in various places and serve Gluwein, Bratwurst, all sorts of german food and various stalls selling all types of Christmas gift. The main shopping drag is full of prestigious shops catering particulary well for the fashionable female - the architecture of many of the shops are quite up to the mark. There seems lots of money here!

The food is good and the pubs are very, very crowded and every one loves Kolsch - the local beer drunk cold and in small 0.2L glasses.

The Romisch-Germanischers Museum, close by the Dom in Koln has an amazing collection - although not displayed not in user-friendly interactive mode, but rather in the object rich traditional method.

Amazing mosiac showing Dionysus and another one showing Philosophers.



Highlight for me was some statue heads showing amazing female hairstyles in some detail and a glass cup with scenes from Odysseus calling Achilles to the Trojan War.

Some interesting post roman images of Adam and Eve, and Jesus, moulds for samian ware and other moulds including one for a large chi-rho.
Early reliquaries with holes in top and side for creation of holy oil/water that had been steeped in the bones of the saint.
I saw lots of memorials with 3 legged tables depicted - a reconstruction of a roman carriage with leather sprung system, etc.
Roman remains on display seemed meagre (although I did not search extensively) except complete west gate of course, and section of roman road.
Large excavations currently on on new subway train system.

Next to the Museum is the Museum Ludwig - a fantastic interior with a wondeful modern collections of paintings - it has a great cafe for lounging in.

Favourite bar? the low budget bar - say hello to Isabella, who tries to get to know everyone by name and makes sure your Kolsch is filled up!



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